Varanasi (or Baranas to the locals) is probably one of the most famous locations within India. It’s popular amongst national and international tourists alike due to the religious ties here. The holy Ganges flows alongside the city lapping at the steps of the numerous ghats that border it. Religious men (Aghori – the men in orange), that have turned their back on society, wander and perform blessings and rituals to the living and the dead. People of all walks of life, of all religions, congregate here to feel the magic of this older than time city.
Whilst staying in Varanasi Bradley and I tried to experience numerous areas, as the city has more to offer than just its ghats. We were here for 5 full days which is plenty of time and we didn’t feel rushed at all.
The Ghats
Varanasi is probably most famous for its ghats. Each ghat offers something different and they have different purposes. We visited 3 main ghats; Assi Ghat, Dasheshwamedh Ghat and Manikarnika Ghat. Unfortunately, as we visited Varanasi just as the rains stopped, the river was incredibly high. This meant that, for us, there wasn’t a lot to see as we couldn’t walk along the front at all. The river was moving seriously fast and all (legitimate) boat operators were not running.
Tip: if you come to Varanasi, time it when the river is low! February – March is a great time to come and you could even experience Holi festival at the same time.
Dasheshwamedh Ghat
Every night at 6:45 (we were told about 20 different start times but this was when it actually started) a performance is held here called a fire Aarti. It’s held on the platform in front of the ghat, not in the side streets. It was quite cool to witness but again, we could not really experience it properly since we could not go out in front to watch due to the river.
However, luckily for us there was festival taking place simultaneously right next to the ghat. Teej festival is an opportunity for married and unmarried women to pray and make offerings to Lord Shiva. They pray to either protect their family’s and grant them long marriages or to find a husband in Lord Shivas image. It was really amazing to witness as they were all done up in fancy sari’s and stunning jewellery. They crowded around the Aghori men who read verses and would throw their offerings onto a middle part where incense and candles were burning. We felt very lucky to have stumbled into such an event, which turned out to be more interesting than the aarti we had come for.
Manikarnika Ghat
This ghat is one of the more famous ghats in Varanasi as it is where the cremations take place. In winter, we were told, up to 50 bodies may be burnt at any one time. At this time of year the flooding has come so far up the streets that now the burning is secluded to a reasonably new (2 years old) purpose built building. Here only 10 bodies can be burnt at one time and so there was a literal line of dead bodies covered in silks on wooden stretches, waiting for their turn. It is the belief of Hindu people that being ‘showered’ in the river cleanses the body and is good karma. Then when the body is being burnt more water from the river is thrown onto them. The body burns for around 3 hours and once finished the ashes are thrown into the river – so it is all connected to the Ganges. The process is said to signify an end to the reincarnation life cycle and provide peace to the soul.
There is so much to learn regarding this aspect of their culture. Especially regarding the politics around payment, since it is a costly procedure (silk, wood, workers etc). A lot of those that come to die in Varanasi might have no family or friends to pay for this and they rely heavily on donations of others. Hindu people might donate to this cause to provide themselves with good karma in their life.
Taking photos is strictly prohibited and you must be respectful of this. We were able to watch the process from a local boy’s home, away from the touts and crowds. If you do venture down, which you should, never listen to anyone. You are allowed to be there and you absolutely do not need to donate any money to them!! If you want to donate do it officially or it’s going to end up in the wrong hands.
City of Silk
Another of Varansi’s claims to fame is that it is a huge manufacturer of silk and pashmina. There are 100’s of shops selling everything from scarves to complete bed sets and the colours are just mesmerising.
Upon arriving in the city I had planned for Brad and I to visit a large silk manufacturing factory but instead we ended up having a much more authentic experience. Next to our hostel a small silk shop called Sofea had some things hung outside. I had ignored it originally as every shop you walk past will call you to come in and honestly, it really puts you off. But we walked past as the sun went down and no one was disturbing us so I stopped and looked at their scarves. Anyway, before you knew it me and Brad we’re sat in this room with a mattress like flooring, drinking the best chai we’ve ever had, completely hypnotised by these men’s materials. They showed us their products and then they showed us the products many of these fraudulent shops sell to tourists at horrendously marked up prices. To do this he would set the scarves on fire! The scarves made of silk and pashmina burned like hair and felt as ash (worth 800-1200 rupee). The scarves made of cotton smelt and burnt like plastic (worth 70 rupee). The sad thing is most shops will sell the cheap plastic scarves to unknowing tourists at a price many times more than they’re worth.
The next morning our lovely new friend offered to show us how the traditional silk products are manufactured. He did this out of pure kindness and asked for no money in return! I would highly recommend a visit to this shop, go there yourself and do not allow a guide to take you!!
Tip: all guides and men offering help in the city, as a rule of thumb, are out for money. They will take you to a shop or hotel and you’ll be forced to pay 40-60% more to cover that person’s commission! Kindly refuse and make your own way.
Sarnath
Obviously, we needed to find other things to do with our time here due to the river front being off limits. Our friend at the silk shop recommended Sarnath to us so we thought, “why not!”. This is an approx. 45 minutes auto ride from the Assi Ghat area and sits just north of Varanasi. We paid our driver 450 rupees to take us there and back, and wait for us for around 3 hours whilst we wandered around.
Sarnath is a Buddhist hub, similar to Bodh Gaya that we have previously visited. Though, there seemed to be less tourists here and it had a more peaceful atmosphere which we really enjoyed. The gardens and temples are just beautiful and they then have the ‘Deer Park’. Don’t be misled though! Brad and I imagined this to be an open space with free roaming deer (sort of like Windsor Great Park) but instead it was a miniature zoo, all animals in cages – slightly disappointing. Despite this, we really liked Sarnath and thought it was a great use of one of our afternoons in Varanasi.
Recommended Eats
Brown Bread Factory
We went here in the evening after the Teej Festival experience, as our Lonely Planet book recommended it. It had a very chilled atmosphere with 2 local musicians playing live on the rooftop area. The food was good-average I’d say. I wish we had gone earlier in the day when more of the fresh baked goods were available!
Red Chilli
In the Assi Ghat area, we went here at lunch time for a sit down meal. It was more expensive but the food was really good! Serving a mix of authentic Indian cuisine and some Chinese influences (Indian people LOVE Chinese food and it’s on pretty much every menu – much to my joy). Everything was cooked fresh and tasted amazing.
Blue Lassi
Another Lonely Planet recommendation, we went here after watching the burning ghat. I think it did help that we were absolutely parched, but it was definitely the best yoghurt based snack/drink I’ve ever had. We’ve basically resigned ourselves to never ordering a lassi again as we know it doesn’t get better than that.
Open Hand Café
Our final day left us with no hotel, heavy backpacks and a lot of time to kill. So after a quick google search we wound up at this cute, cosy café. They do a bunch of small meals and sell delicious cake – need I say more? Oh and the coffee is decent too.
I’d definitely say, through the chaos, you can tell Varanasi is a religious city when you’re walking through it. You get a sense that it means a lot to the people that live here which is a nice thing to appreciate. Obviously, we are sad we didn’t get to see the ghats in all their glory – but I suppose that’s a great excuse to come back!
Lar
Great photos Brad! Interesting outlook on a somber subject and great description of the area
Great blog Lara, thanks for sharing xx
Just terrific Lara, you are having the experience of a lifetime! Stay safe x
Thank you Anna – definitely in the swing of it now and having an amazing time!xx
Great blog and awsome photos xxxxxxx
Loving these blog posts really well written. Missing you at the Chinese. Keep having a FAB time!
Thank you Mat! I’ll do my best. Missing you all loads and have made my way through Hitchhikers again (great way to kill some hours on a long train journey!) x
Awesome, I’m listening to it while I’m doing deliveries!